Set up your canvas
Use 8 x 10 inches at 300 DPI as a safe default — sharp whether you print small for a wrist or larger for a forearm. Work in separate, clearly named layers (Sketch, Lines, Shading) so the design stays editable and non-destructive.
1. Rough the sketch
Sketch on its own layer in a distinct color (light blue or red) so it reads apart from your final lines. Block the composition and placement first — don't commit to detail yet.
2. Clean linework
Lower the sketch opacity, add a new layer, and ink the final lines in black. Complete each curve in a single confident stroke — overlapping, "hairy" lines kill the clean single-needle look. A crisp inker is essential; see the inking brushes category.
3. Turn a photo into a stencil
For reference-based designs: import the image, set it to black and white, duplicate the layer, set the copy to Color Dodge and invert it, then apply 3–6% Gaussian Blur. Adjust Curves until you're left with clean linework you can trace.
4. Shading (optional)
Add shading on its own layer below the lines. For smooth black-and-grey, a soft shader plus a blender works well; for dotwork, a stipple brush. Keep shading layers separate so you can export the stencil without them.
5. Export a print-ready stencil
A stencil is a high-contrast line drawing with no shading — a map for the needle. Hide the sketch, color and shading layers, leaving solid black lines on white or transparent, then export as PNG or PDF for the thermal printer.
Brushes that make tattoo design faster
You mainly need a precise liner, a stipple/dotwork brush, a smooth shader, and stencil-friendly stamps. We list specific picks in best Procreate brushes for tattoo design, or jump straight to the tattoo brushsets collection to download free sets.
A habit that keeps clients happy
Keep every element on labeled layers. When a client asks to move an element or resize the piece for a different placement, a clean layer stack turns an hour of redrawing into a 30-second tweak.